Scrappy Day

A little poor planning struck this morning. The stove had been very difficult to light due to the rain clearing off from last night - it rained all night. In addition there was something of a wind, so trying to use the stove was using a lot of gas. We ran out of gas - someone had not weighed the cylinder before we set off. As a result breakfast was a non-event, and it was all a bit scrappy. We walked for a couple of hours to a Tibetan village, Here, our guide demonstrated that what he had been saying about Tibetan networking was true - he walked into someone's house, that he had never met before and took over the stove in order to provide us with brunch. This was not only regarded as normal, but so commonplace that it was unremarkable. We had our meal while the patriarch of the household, a 78 year old, crippled man, lay on his bed sewing prayer flags onto the cord that would hold them up when they were in position on a stupa or mountain or pass.

This village did show evidence of development Chinese style - a complete row of brand new shops and apartments standing complete, but empty. Obviously developed as a speculative opportunity which has not yet paid off. This all in a tiny village about 70K from the nearest towns.

I was feeling both better than yesterday, and simultaneously, less able to walk. I managed only about four hours out of the eight intended for today, before having to take a ride from the driver who had been staying in a local town; and who was called in to provided us with a new gas cylinder and to act as my chauffeur.

Most notable wildlife features of the day was watching eagles soaring overhead, and spending time with the driver, once we got to our campsite ahead of the others, watching marmots fighting, displaying, mating, and playing.

I am learning a lot from this attempt at a kora, and will probably be able to write many blogs on the basis of it.