Sunday 29 September 2019
The Sun in his Glory
I know that life is the integration of experience over time, but occasionally I wish that the experience was a little less lumpy.
In the past I have only used sun cream on one occasion - the first time I went skiing, when everyone said "Chris we know you tan well, but you must get some sun cream to go skiing". So I went out and got a bottle of of factor two or three (I forget now, which) and applied it on the first day. This was such a faff that I didn't bother subsequently, and four days into the trip I was getting asked for directions in French as everyone thought me a local.
Equally, I have sun burnt on only one occasion - working in a market garden for six weeks, usually without a shirt, doing stoop labour, the back of my neck went somewhat pink towards the end of this period.
So it was a bit of a shock when on the first couple of days on the trek, I not only burnt, but burnt very badly on the outside of my lower arms and hands, the back of my neck, and more lightly on the top of my head, my forehead, the edges of my ears, and the tip of my nose. By my estimates, it probably took five minutes to start to burn; 10 minutes to burn badly; and that I was in the direct sun at 4000m for about 11 minutes. Also my estimate of the temperature in the direct sun was 48o C. I lost all the skin on my lower arms and hands, and a chunk from the back of my neck. It took about 10 days to repair the damage. One additional unexpected effect was that the areas of my hands that lost skin have grown back with a lot more hair there than I had previously.
So I've learnt always to cover up well in the direct sun at altitude. A much deferred lesson or hubris justly punished?
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List of Bhutan posts (including preparation)
Bhutan Trip
Dairy of Madcap Idea or preparations for my next trip
Diary of a Madcap Idea part II
Diary of a Madcap Idea part III
Diary of a Madcap Idea part IV - I've got to go up HOW far!!!
Diary of a Madcap Idea part V - I have a cunning plan
Diary of a Madcap Idea part VI
Decay of a Madcap Idea (Diary part VII)
The Trek
The Sun in his Glory
A few photos
Not trekking
Black-necked Cranes
Wildlife - the story behind the pictures
Wednesday 25 September 2019
Bhutan trip - the trek
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The scale and organistion of the trek in Bhutan dwarfed my efforts.
There was a guide (extreme left), plus an assistant (left) learning to
do trekking guide-work; three trekkers (middle); a cook (right); a
sherpa (extreme right); two horsemen with their 12 horses (not in
picture); and the mound of equipment needed for the next 24 days; and
supplies intended for a major portion of the trek.
Later in the trek the it was revealed that the equipment included the material for a hot shower (canvas screen, flat stones on grass, large bucket of hot water, and a dipper). This was pure luxury. The first appearance of this wonder occurred here at Jangothang Base Camp. I understand that it made two further appearances during the full duration of the trek.
Before the trek, we arrived in Paro, and had a brief tour of the town. The following day we walked up to The Tiger's Nest (about 7km and 1000m of ascent). We took three days to get up to the Base Camp. The first full day's trekking was tough, and got us up to 3700m. The next day saw us at the Base Camp. The following day was a rest day, so we only walked for about 4 1/2 hours, or 12 km, and ascended 380m. The lake was magnificent, and provided views, on the opposite mountain side, of about four flocks of blue sheep - a Bhutanese specific species. The flocks did eventually merge, and we estimated that there were between 120 and 150 animals in total. Unfortunately, no pictures, as I had learned by this time to leave all my camera gear in my pack - too heavy, too bulky, and too awkward when attempting to trek with poles.
After the little excursion to the lake, was the point at which I
separated from the others, to come off the mountain, while they went on
to complete the trek over the following three weeks.
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When I organised a trek in the Himalayan region, I arranged the smallest
group I possibly could. This contained three trekkers, a guide, a
driver, and a yak man plus his two horses and three yaks. This for a
seven day trek including getting to the area, and back to my Chinese
base.
| Jangothng (7314m) Base Camp (4050m) © 2019 Jamyang Dorji |
Later in the trek the it was revealed that the equipment included the material for a hot shower (canvas screen, flat stones on grass, large bucket of hot water, and a dipper). This was pure luxury. The first appearance of this wonder occurred here at Jangothang Base Camp. I understand that it made two further appearances during the full duration of the trek.
Before the trek, we arrived in Paro, and had a brief tour of the town. The following day we walked up to The Tiger's Nest (about 7km and 1000m of ascent). We took three days to get up to the Base Camp. The first full day's trekking was tough, and got us up to 3700m. The next day saw us at the Base Camp. The following day was a rest day, so we only walked for about 4 1/2 hours, or 12 km, and ascended 380m. The lake was magnificent, and provided views, on the opposite mountain side, of about four flocks of blue sheep - a Bhutanese specific species. The flocks did eventually merge, and we estimated that there were between 120 and 150 animals in total. Unfortunately, no pictures, as I had learned by this time to leave all my camera gear in my pack - too heavy, too bulky, and too awkward when attempting to trek with poles.
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Tuesday 24 September 2019
Decay of a Madcap Idea (diary part VII)
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Instead of 24 days , I only did six days walking in Bhutan. After the first hard day trekking; 22.7 km, 1000 m ascent, 10 h 25 m of walking, and difficult terrain - switchbacks, mud, rock, and flowing water; I was totally exhausted. By the end of the day I was moving extremely slowly.
The second day confirmed I was having difficulties acclimitising. An easier day; 6 hours walking, 16.8 km, 350 m of ascent, and similar but less muddy terrain. but I was exhausted and moving slowly by lunchtime. One possible cause was that I developed a minor chest infection, with a rubbishy cough, and a snuffle. I assume I had caught this en-route to Paro, either in Delhi, or on the flights. While I did not feel ill, and would have said that it was not affecting me, I was not performing as I have in the past, nor as I expected to.
These difficulties put in perspective that there were only three break out points on the entire route; that the first was very close to the start, and was the only one that it was possible to walk out from; that the second was seven days or more into the trek and the last about 21 days into the trek; and from these latter two the only way out was by helicopter.
It was obvious that I would have very great difficulties if I were to continue, so it wasn't even a decision. I opted to break out, and walk out from the trek back to Paro. In all I had done six days walking. I covered about 60km; climbed at least 4100m; reached an altitude of 4430m.
The whole trek would have worked out at:
24 days trekking
270 miles (432 km)
at least 10 km ascent (possibly as much as 15 km)
Having got down, I accepted that all the money spent on the trek had been spent. I arranged with the tour operator to set up a culture, sightseeing and wildlife photography trip for my remaining time in Bhutan. So an enjoyable time but not what I had gone there to do.
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| Jomolhari (7324m) from Jangothan Base Camp (4040m) |
Instead of 24 days , I only did six days walking in Bhutan. After the first hard day trekking; 22.7 km, 1000 m ascent, 10 h 25 m of walking, and difficult terrain - switchbacks, mud, rock, and flowing water; I was totally exhausted. By the end of the day I was moving extremely slowly.
The second day confirmed I was having difficulties acclimitising. An easier day; 6 hours walking, 16.8 km, 350 m of ascent, and similar but less muddy terrain. but I was exhausted and moving slowly by lunchtime. One possible cause was that I developed a minor chest infection, with a rubbishy cough, and a snuffle. I assume I had caught this en-route to Paro, either in Delhi, or on the flights. While I did not feel ill, and would have said that it was not affecting me, I was not performing as I have in the past, nor as I expected to.
These difficulties put in perspective that there were only three break out points on the entire route; that the first was very close to the start, and was the only one that it was possible to walk out from; that the second was seven days or more into the trek and the last about 21 days into the trek; and from these latter two the only way out was by helicopter.
It was obvious that I would have very great difficulties if I were to continue, so it wasn't even a decision. I opted to break out, and walk out from the trek back to Paro. In all I had done six days walking. I covered about 60km; climbed at least 4100m; reached an altitude of 4430m.
The whole trek would have worked out at:
24 days trekking
270 miles (432 km)
at least 10 km ascent (possibly as much as 15 km)
Having got down, I accepted that all the money spent on the trek had been spent. I arranged with the tour operator to set up a culture, sightseeing and wildlife photography trip for my remaining time in Bhutan. So an enjoyable time but not what I had gone there to do.
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